Derek Lam

derek lam spring 2012

New York: Although Richard Neutra’s midcentury-style Kaufmann House in Palm Springs served as Derek Lam’s inspiration this season, the designer’s clothing interpretations of its throwback aesthetic read right for modern day. Clean, sturdy shapes seemed to mimic the home’s architecture, while a retro desert color palette conjured its location. Geometric patchwork seen on pencil skirts had an “atomic” 60s feel, while relaxed fits and unfussy silhouettes lent a laid-back vibe to festive beaded frocks. Beauty looks translated the theme most literally; cool, yet ladylike ponytails and glowing golden complexions likely stemmed from those seen in photographs of some of the Kaufmann House’s glamourous female guests as they lazed poolside. –Whitney Kessler

Silhouette: Straight and structured

Color: Canary yellow / Black / White / Chestnut / Navy / Cream / Coral / Fiery red / Chartreuse / Turquoise / Stormy blue / Royal purple

Key Items: Blazer / Openwork sweater / Slim cropped pant / Sweater dress / Trench / Pencil skirt / Knit shell / Button-front

Materials: Leather / Silk / Pointelle and ribbed sweater knits / Python / Linen

Print + Pattern: Windowpane patterns / Pinstripes / Patchwork medallion motif / Tropical scarf prints

Details + Trim: Pieced constructions / Scalloped edges / Contrast details / Raglan sleeves / Zipper accents / Perforations / Inverted and inset pleats / Snap closures / Contrast stitching / Patent leather trims / Bibs / Beading / Latticework / Deep V-necks

Accessories + Footwear: Patterned pumps and platforms / Clasp bags with chain straps / Leather chain belts / Hybrid mules with ankle straps / Printed hard hats

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