May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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New York: In perhaps his most cohesive collection to date, Derek Lam made a compelling argument for an evolution of the “minimalism” trend toward a less clinical simplicity. Yes silhouettes were boxy, clean, and stood away from the body but upon them one could find endearing notes of charm; the show began with mini-floral jacquarded separates that discreetly homaged a certain rose-printed dress (SS 04) responsible for Lam’s initial industry recognition. Styled to walk arm-in-arm with some wayward “Teddy Boy”, this modern day “Judy” embraced her rebellious side borrowing her beau’s billowing over-sized trousers and “Fab Four” suits to ironic result. For evening she cozied-up diaphanous slip-structured chiffon gowns with complexly cabled turtlenecks, that could just as easily work with this collection’s statement peacoats, or whittled pencil skirts. –Kibwe Chase-Marshall
Silhouette: Boxy / Slim / Cropped / Drop-waist / Pencil / Belted
Color: Black / White / Oxblood / Marigold / Cordovan / Slate / Oxford blue / Deep navy
Key Items: Billowing cropped trouser / Back-belted peacoat / Belted coat-dress / Pencil skirt
Materials: Double-face wool coating / Jacquared silk satin / Melange wool suiting / Leather / Fox fur / Silk chiffon / Shearling / Wool boucle / Silk crepe de Chine
Print + Pattern: Mini-floral / Fretwork paisley / Nostalgic 2-tone floral
Details + Trim: Extended back-belt / Contrast-embroidered collar / Released shirring / Floating-paillette embroidery / Rib-trimmed collar, cuff, and hem
Accessories + Footwear: Soft box-bag / Contrast-toe stiletto pump / Metallic brogue / Elasticized belt
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