Derek Lam

New York: Fall found Derek Lam taking a minimalist approach to his usually colorful Boho-tinged aesthetic, reducing the palette to a select few neutrals and dusty earth tones and molding his laidback styles into sleek, architectural forms. Titled “Myth of the West” and inspired by Robert Altman’s McCabe & Mrs. Miller, the collection was two parts Rough Riders to one part 70s era high-society equestrian. Supple leathers and wools were cut and pieced into coats that formed soft shells around the body in a way reminiscent of Phoebe Philo’s S/S 10 collection for Celine. Leather was worked into almost every ensemble, adding luxury and body to garments in the form of sleeves, yoke panels, plackets and shoulder insets. Lam also presented a variety of strong pant silhouettes – leather skinny legs, preppy jodhpurs and shantung bootcuts brought a cosmopolitan sensibility to westernwear. Meanwhile, Navajo motifs embroidered onto suede skirts and fringe-trimmed hemlines represented the native contingent of the American West. Cozy cable knit sweaters and draped jersey dresses provided a welcome textural and structural contrast to all the rigidly-tailored shapes, making one of Lam’s strongest collections to date grounded and wearable.
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