May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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New York: Derek Lam presented a modernist’s take on bohemian. The collection had an early 70s vibe with patchwork, crochet and floating maxi dresses, but the look was very pared-down and minimalist, in rich elegant fabrics and classic colors. Think early Lauren Hutton, Jane Birken and Bianca Jagger. As always, there was great outerwear here; double-faced duffle coats, clean collarless styles and this season’s cape all came in maxi, midi and mini. Fox fur vests were extra-luxe in deep red and navy. “Thoughtful, quiet, and sober,” said Lam post show. Leather/suede patchwork tops, skirts and dresses were clever examples of graphic craftsmanship. ”Fabric this season is all about texture,” said Lam, who showed bouclé, cashmere, felt wool and double-faced satin. Suede/crochet dresses and crochet knit styles were boho-luxed-up with yarn tassels; there even was that 70s icon, the poncho. Center-parted hair emphasized the hippie look, but it was a polished hippie this time. The swooping paneled skirts were lovely, as were floor-length turtleneck dresses in jersey crepe. Demure collarless blouses with subtle color blocking captured the effortless and efficient vibe that defines the Lam brand. At the end, a white silk crepe gown with a draped shawl collar/hood was pure minimalist perfection. —Celia Ingesson
Silhouette: Lean / Flared / Minimalistic / Floor length
Color: Camel / Navy / Ecru / Wine / Blushe / Rust / Ivory / Grey / Fig / Black
Key Items: Long minimalist cape / Leather patchwork skirts and dresses / Suede crocheted dress / Fox vest / Poncho in lace / Long crepe dresses
Materials: Double-faced wool cashmere/ Double-faced satin / Leather / Crepe jersey / Crepe silk / Crochet knit / Suede / Fox fur
Print + Pattern: Patchwork / Color blocking
Details + Trim: Leather and suede contrasting trims / Yarn fringe / Crochet
Accessories + Footwear: Strappy pump / Python ankle bootie / Shiny calf leather pump / Newton camera bag / Bonded leather tote bag / Clutch
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