May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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AN EASE OF CRAFT
New York: Derek Lam tackled a craftier aesthetic than usual this season, reworking his classically sporty separates in a variety of highly textured materials and layered details. In the vein of designers like Consuelo Castiglioni, the S/S 13 collection looked to coated woven fabrics, weighty leather and layered paillettes, while also sticking with Lam’s signature sweatshirt tops and slim trousers. Standouts arrived where these influences intersected as asymmetric shift dresses in madras plaid, embroidered net t-shirts and gold leather skirts embellished with macramé. Artsy but never fussy, Lam’s Spring presentation was a savvy and significantly younger update to the recent craze for surface treatments.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Slim / A-line / Straight & boxy
Color: Gold / Black / Camel / Mint / Marigold / Olive green / Persimmon / Lemon / Emerald / Aqua / White / Dove grey / Chocolate / Lavender / Oxblood
Key Items: Shift dresses / Patterned suiting / Leather tops / Molded sweatshirts / A-line skirts / Deconstructed trench coats / Halter dresses / Net t-shirts / Straight miniskirts
Materials: Mixed madras / Jersey / Fleece / Leather / Silk macramé / Guipure lace / Coated basketweave / Netting
Print + Pattern: Madras plaid / Colorblocking / Geometric repeats
Details + Trim: Paillettes / Leather piping / Gathering / Stiff ruffles / Asymmetry / Exaggerated shoulders / Pleating / Macramé trim
Accessories + Footwear: Pointy pumps / Slingback pumps / Slim leather belts / Clutches / Colorblocked leather tote bags / Ankle boots / Peep-toe boots / Oversized plastic sunglasses / Bold pendant necklaces
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