May 17, 2017 | By Samuel Trotman
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We just got back from beautiful Paris where we’ve been gathering denim inspiration at renowned fabric show, Denim By Premiere Vision. Now in it’s 11th edition, the two-day show took place November 28-29 at its usual venue, La Halle Freyssinet.
From the first morning the show seemed busier than usual with a real buzz and plenty of events to inspire the S/S 14 season. At 11:30 am on day one, the team from Italian mill ITV held a press conference with recent partners, Ecoyaa from Korea and stretch masters Invista. Ecoyaa has spent the last few years researching and developing eco-friendly products and is famous most recently for the development of a wine-dyed technology called Wine-Tex. The Wine-Tex product caught the eyes of ITV at last season’s Denim By PV and they’ve teamed up with Invista to produce a new range of denim fabrics that use Wine-Tex at their Abruzzo base in Cellino Attanasio. For more info, stay tuned for our full Denim PV report next week on the denim section.
In other denim gossip, Marithé + François Girbaud (regular attendees and supporters of Denim PV) were signing copies of their new book L’Autre Jean. The book was published in-line with the launch of the couple’s The Other Jeans exhibition at the Museum of Art and Industrie de Saint-Etienne. Both the book and the exhibition cover a retrospective of Marithé + François’s 40-year work in fashion with some amazing denim images, especially from the 80s and 90s. We sat down and spoke with the inspirational couple at the book signing and will be blogging about the book on DDD later this week — so stay tuned.
Leading Turkish mill, ISKO™ was once again invited to host their seasonal project Up To Denim along with a selection of the industries most innovative names. The third edition “Explore Inside, Express Yourself” showcased ISKO’s latest partnership with INVISTA, owner of the LYCRA® and LYCRA T400®, together with the prestigious GEOX to launch their collaborative denim collection BLUGEOX. ISKO’s two Italian design departments ISKOTECA and Creative Room were on hand to curate exclusive pieces using the innovative fabric that combines the technological qualities of ISKO Pop and T400. Guest speakers Marco Lucietti (SANKO/ISKO Division), Jean Hegedus (INVISTA), and Valeria Czernis (GEOX) hosted the press conference and revealed that the BLUGEOX was created to cater to international customers seeking style, comfort and design, alongside value for money. They highlighted that the combination of these two entities creates a performance stretch fabric with smoother hand compared to the existing textured stretch yarns on the market.
As far as denim trends are concerned, we will be working on a full report this week, but there were two strong themes at the show that caught our eye right away. Being the S/S season, pastels and colors were important, but notably less so than the previous few seasons. We noted a particularly strong trend towards white warp yarns teamed with weft color, creating soft, barely-there pastels on the denim face.
Another strong look was the continual increase in 3-D and tactile surface texture. We’ve been seeing this trend develop over the last few seasons with neppy surfaces, slubs, twisted yarn textures, and dobby weaves, but for S/S 14, mills are going to the extreme. Jacquards continue to drive surfaces forward with geo-weaves and quilted jacquards emerging as well as indigo seersuckers and knit-twill constructions, creating bold textures.
For more details on this season’s show visit the official Denim by Premiere Vision website.
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