Denim By Premiere Vision Highlight: F/W 14
By Samuel Trotman

The Denim Team just got back from Paris, where we attended one of the most influential trade shows of the season: Denim by Premiere Vision.

May 27, 2013
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The Denim Team just got back from Paris, where we attended one of the most influential trade shows of the season: Denim by Premiere Vision. Now in its 12th edition, the show was bigger and bolder than ever, celebrating their playful circus theme for the F/W 14 season.

The show was the backdrop to a packed schedule of events, seminars and presentations showcasing the latest denim innovations from the worlds of weaving, dyeing and finishing. Seasonal veterans Jeanologia teamed once again with Francois Girbaud to create an almost couture approach to the latest laser innovations. The star of the show was an intricately laser cut and etched prom skirt, proving that denim can be one of the most versatile fabrics in the market today. Look out for a blog post on the DDD next week featuring both the garments and the videos to demonstrate the unlimited possibilities using laser — it blew our minds!

Expanding on their partnership forged last season, ITV and Winetex presented a live demonstration featuring an artist from Korea who created artistic denim surfaces using their patented wine dying process. Isko also continued their “Up To Denim” program this season, showing a retrospective of stretch denim from the “orange peel” looks of the ’70s and ’80s through to their latest progressive technologies combining high stretch and great recovery capabilities. They partnered with Germany’s Esprit and Invista to launch their 24 hour jean with spokespeople from each dynamic.

Trends:

Ahead of next week’s full trend coverage, here’s a little taster of our editors picks from the show.

Apt for the F/W season, many vendors included winter-ready denims exploring cozy aspects like brushed surfaces, flocked interiors and bonded fleecy treatments. Masters of coatings, Isko continued their reputation as pioneers of surface innovation, launching their “Nubuck” finish, replicating matte sueded surfaces. Multicolored neps were very much emerging last winter, but for F/W 14 the look transitioned into a denim staple.

Mills continued to focus on a diverse range of textures, prints and surface pattern with a distinctly indigo palette. Boro surfaces were given premium appeal with multi-layered and textured applications. Newcomer to PV, Hantex DCC from Pakistan showcased one of the most impressive patched looks, combining up to eight fabrics in one garment, nodding to Kapital‘s infamous handcrafted textiles. On the other end of the scale, Jeanologia showed how to recreate artisanal looks in minutes, using their laser technology.

Plaid and stripe continued, but innovation drove new aspects such as degraded flock, micro jacquard and hand-applied bleach techniques. Novel weave stories also emerged, some of our favorites from Blue Farm Hong Kong, who presented a modern approach to traditional loom masters’ constructions: macro cavalry twills, woven ombre stripes and an impressive array of dobby’s, jacquards and engineered weaves.

Stylesight subscribers should look out for our full coverage of the trends, news and show highlights in our unrivaled PV report in the denim section next week.

 


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