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Denim by Premiere Vision

We’re blogging from Paris this week, where we have been camped out at the renowned Denim by Premiere Vision fabric trade show. In its 9th edition,  the show has seen an increase of 22% over last december’s show with 81 exhibitors from 19 countries. The show was decked out as a retro- futurist research base camp, complete with helicopter, science lab and caravan campsite! Mills wowed us with their innovations and installations.

Orta Blu set up an authentic wooden hand loom and spilling wheel as part of their initiative with  the Buldan village in Turkey. The town’s tradition of handwoven textiles dates back to the 13th century but with the advent of modern textile machine manufacturing, Buldan’s current capacity has shrunk down to only a few looms. Orta is reviving the local craft by increasing the amount of looms and creating a more viable business model.

Turkish mill Bossa celebrated its 60th anniversary at the show with their ‘Glowing Whispers’ installation: a new fabric development using reflective yarns to create dramatic results under black light or flash. We look forward to seeing what companies use this fabric for cycling ranges! Levi’s Commuter range phase 2?!

Italian brand Dondup teamed up with ISKO and ITACLab to create a high tech display and project named ‘Up to Denim- Innovation looking beyond’.  A futuristic display took visitors on a virtual journey through the new techniques and concepts. The İSKO™ patented fabrics and innovations – produced on TONELLO machinery and featuring the inclusion of GARMON low environmental impact treatments and exclusive ITACLAB ozone wash technology – open up new oppportunities for the future of eco-friendly manufacturing.

Fabio Adami Dalla Val, from leading Italian laundry ITACLab hosted the VIP lounge this season, under the code name ‘The Cause: Easy Edibles’ with a group of regional specialities from Piceno.

We’ve gathered  over 2000 images from the show: future weave, laundry and trim developments that we can’t wait to share with you in our monster report coming soon.

But for now here’s a sneak preview of the key trends: stretch shine, including sateen and tencel looks dominated fabric developments, as well as new color and finish techniques that took over from traditional indigo looks for summer 13 where colored, pearlescent and plastic finished resins transformed 3×1 twills.

Mills continued to focus on the eco-friendly theme thats been building for the last few seasons. Cone launched their ‘Sustainblue’ story using recycled plastic bottles in new and summery pastels whilst Royo continued to explore their use of eco friendly tencel to produce unexpected results, defying the preconceptions of rustic and neppy sustainable aesthetics and taking the theme into 2013.

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