Deconstructing Tradition (Ann Demeulemeester)

Paris…It really says a lot when a directional designer like Ann Demeulemeester decides to take the most basic and classic of menswear items, the suit, and strip it away of all the accoutrements that sometimes make it exciting. Yes, the shirt and tie was mostly completely absent from this tailored-heavy collection, not that many would expect the designer to go with the expected anyway. Soft shouldered jackets had nothing but the skin underneath to provide some kind of contrast to the black, white or tan fabrics. Interesting jewelry like two-way metal chains and leather “vines” climbed down the models’ chests to add even more interest to the otherwise minimal styling. Pants went the way of either slim and cropped or loose and voluminous. The chosen formal look of the season was a sequined shawl collar jacket shown with high-waisted leather pants and a matching hair band. As with many Parisian designers, one can always count on at least a few representations of androgyny in each show. There were a few pieces of outerwear, mostly made out of silk and rendered as a hooded silhouette, reminding us of an active piece seen in many “rough and rowdy” sports. Demeuelemeester’s goal in stripping down the garments? So that we would respect and appreciate the craftsmanship and fabrics even more. She definitely succeeded.


Know what’s next. Become a WGSN member today to benefit from our daily trend intelligence, retail analytics, consumer insights and bespoke consultancy services.