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MONOCHROME SCHOOLMARM
New York: With strains of Björk’s caterwaul crackling in the background, former model muse to Tom Ford at Gucci, Elenora Bose, returned to the runway in a show-stopping yellow suit and cropped, dyed-to-match hair. The strong look set the tone for for David Delfin’s trademark studies on androgynous dressing, tailored deconstruction and monochromatic color schemes. Known for his friendship with Pedro Almodóvar (and a recent starring role in the premiere of Bravo’s Kell on Earth), the actor-turned-designer seems to pick from the Crayola box of colors that characterize the director’s vivid films. This time, head-to-toe shots of mustard and shocking pink joined a stark palette of mostly black, white and shades of grey. Delfin’s process of deconstruction involves taking apart items and reassembling the pieces in unexpected ways. This season, a knife-pleated skirt turned up as a peplum on shorts, the pockets of a sport coat appeared on a pencil skirt and a princess-seamed sheath had side panels borrowed from a tuxedo jacket. Severe buttoned-up shirts accompanied all the ensembles, completing the image of a prim but stylish schoolmarm. Soft dropped-sleeve sweaters and plaid, tile and snakeskin prints broke up the uniformity, turning this collection into one of Delfin’s most accessible yet.
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