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David Koma

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CUBIST BALLERINA

London: For his latest collection, young Russian-born designer David Koma drew inspiration from multiple sources. Most influential was Tchaikovsky’s ballet, Swan Lake. Ballerina-silhouetted dresses, with dirndl skirts and perky peplums, were presented in black, white, and powdery pastel tones. Although feminine, the frocks did not read as overly soft or delicate. Instead, strong architectural constructions and graphic designs inspired by cubist artist Fernand Leger made for garments that felt powerful and modern. Black and white pieced panels accentuated structural details, while sturdy wool and voluminous organza easily held shapes. Metal embellishments added industrial sparkle while mimicking the designs created by seam placements, and pieced strips of embossed leather and python added luxe edge. Although bold in many ways, a pleasing balance was achieved. The collection felt pretty, yet tough; classic, yet modern.

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