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David Koma


MELODY MAKER
London: David Koma has been taking something of a hobbyist approach to his past few collections: Last season was tennis-themed, ballet came before that and F/W 13 was all about musical instruments and black vinyl. His sexy, sculptural brand of power dressing has seen its way onto Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, J.Lo and Taylor Swift—quite an accomplishment for a designer only on his fifth collection and one that makes him deserving of the British Fashion Council’s 2013 Fashion Forward award. This collection was a feat of technical brilliance—featuring undulating folds, ribbed leather, sheer paneling, curved seams and stand-away collars, deconstructed and reconstructed without appearing fussy or overbearing. While the black looks were most dramatic and the lipstick-red leather a fun surprise, it was the soft cornflower blue pieces with metallic Deco circles and contrast binding that were a refreshing change of pace for Koma, and had Red Carpet Starlet written all over them. — Natalie Shukur

Silhouette: Fit & Flare / Sculptural / Tailored / Folded

Color: Black / Lipstick red / Powdered beige / Cornflower blue / Denim blue

Key Items: Structural cropped jackets / Flare mini-skirts / Deconstructed biker jackets and coats / Swing coats / Flared and fluted dresses

Materials: Bonded jersey / Leather / Organza / Wool crepe / Velvet

Print + Pattern: Overlapping metallic Deco circle print

Details + Trim: Quilting / Topstitching / Flocking / Folding / Stand-away collars / Vinyl-effect ribbed leather / Epaulettes / Metal zippers / Sheer panels / Laser cutting / Multi-texture paneling / Press-stud fastenings / Belted waists / Metallic belts and binding / Flamenco ruffles / Halternecks

Accessories + Footwear: Black leather ankle strap platform pumps / Leather chokers

View in RUNWAY: QUICKLOOK

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