May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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POSITIVE + NEGATIVE PLAYS
London: Nothing if not consistent, young designer David Koma once again offered body-con frocks, pieced geometric shapes and peplums for F/W 12. As he has in the past, Koma presented several key concepts and featured them heavily throughout his collection; this time, positive versus negative space and weaving were major themes. The designer manipulated silhouettes with illusion tulle insets and strategic color-blocking, and created colorful dot designs by layering hole-punched outerwear over bright under-layers. Giant eyelets also served as a means for weaving buckled straps and fabric panels in and out of garments, creating self-belts and decorative ruffle details. Footwear designed in collaboration with Alain Quilici echoed garment shapes and patterns. —Whitney Kessler
Silhouette: Body-con / Trumpet / Hourglass / Flared
Color: Black / Stoney blue / Ivory / Navy / Royal blue and purple / Raspberry / Periwinkle / Mint
Key Items: Intarsia turtleneck / Pieced button-front / Flared trouser / Peplum dress / Pieced sheath / Hole-punched coat / Pencil skirt
Materials: Tulle / Cloqué / Satin and sateen / Brocade / Melton wools / Fur / Shimmery knits
Print + Pattern: Color-blocking / Interlocking link pattern / Greyhound intarsia motifs
Details + Trim: Cutouts, eyelets and perforations / Leather piping and banding / Princess seams / Pieced constructions / Peplums / Racerbacks / Ruffles / Contrast collars / Cap-sleeves / Sequins / Turtlenecks
Accessories + Footwear: Statement belts / Pointy-toed footwear with greyhound heels (a collaboration with Alain Quilici)
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