May 29, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
Paris…Yves Saint Laurent
Stefano Pilati seems to enjoy taking us on the roller coaster that is the evolution of the legendary Yves Saint Laurent. Seasons after presenting us with the modern form of French dandy, Pilati now seems hell bent on making us forget all preconceived notions of what we thought the brand stood for all those years. Is that a bad thing? It’s yet to be seen since the clear message of his aesthetic has not been cemented for more than one season. For F/W 09/10, YSL had some very sensual fabric and silhouettes, almost hinting at some sort of dark and cryptic monk. Crocodile, cashmere, wool mohair, and satin all made up this ethereal attribute. Wide-leg pants came down to the models’ mid calf, layered over dark tonal leggings (which collection isn’t using them now?). With the overly starched woven shirts and Japanese-inspired construction boots, the collection had as much overt sexiness as a visit to the dentist. On further inspection, though, one can see the allure arise from such experimentations with volume and radical departures from all things classic. Stay tuned.
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