Dark Illusion

Paris…Maison Martin Margiela

Having been one of the designers to herald the “return of the shoulder”, Margiela continued to use sculpted padding for his F/W 09 collection despite the up-trend. Jackets, sweaters and dresses all received this distinctive detail. The full impact of a piece climaxed when the reverse side of dresses exposed an illusion of bare backs with only a single note of lingerie. Similar to his spring collection, pieces were sliced on a bias to emphasize this new main focal point. Legs and shoulders were also exposed by slits cut to the waist and collars swept to one side, producing a standing wing and a sleeve at the other. Slits on the arms of jackets showcased the turtleneck in a monochromatic color combination. Other wings appeared on hooded dresses in the form of looped iridescent cellophane boas attached at the back.


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  • Isn’t it ironic that his big shoulder looks almost “normal” this season, now that all the other designers are doing it!

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