May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Milan: Daniela Gregis may not be well-known outside her native Italy, but if you’re a fan of soft deconstruction, the Japanese school of designers and artisinal, handcrafted clothing, you’d do well to get aquatinted. Gregis’ studio lies outside of Milan in the ancient Piazza Vecchia in Bergamo, and an autonomous vision combining pastoral and fine art influences (she often collaborates with artists and other designers) is evident in her her fluid, tactile garments. For F/W 13 textures were lightweight and crumpled and hems were unfinished—the kind of outfits a global traveller who likes to dispense with an iron and changes climates often would appreciate. But really, any city (or country) dweller could get on board with the effortless sweatshirt dressing and subtle, wabi-sabi elegance that made up today’s show and—disregarding a few slightly clownish looks toward the end—flattered both the young girls and more mature models who walked Gregis’ runway. —Natalie Shukur
Silhouette: Crumpled / Relaxed / Soft / Deconstructed / Asymmetric /
Color: Navy / Raspberry / Black / Lapis / Poppy red / Tulip pink / Sunset orange / Daffodil yellow / Sky blue / Petrol blue / Cranberry
Key Items: Sweatshirts and sweatshirt skirts / Softly pleated and puckered A-line skirts / Wide, relaxed cuffed pants / Shell tops and dresses / Loose layered tees / Light knits / Boatneck trapeze dresses / Simple, collar-less suits / Loose shirting / Culottes
Materials: Nylon / Silk / Wool / Linen / Jersey / Boiled wool / Felt / Puckered silk / Raw silk / Velvet / Merino / Cashmere / Flocked wool jacquard
Print + Pattern: Stripes / Patchwork knits / Abstract watercolor canvas prints / Flannel check / Naive appliqué motifs /
Details + Trim: Raw edges / Ruffles / Drapes / Folds / Pleats / Asymmetric lines / Rolled cuffs / Contrast binding / Gathering
Accessories + Footwear: Platform wedge Mary-Janes / Felt cloche and wide-brimmed hats / Fabric totes / Straw shoppers / Velvet desert boots and ballet slippers / Ribbed wool tights / Cashmere and boiled wool wrap scarves / Chunky stacked bangles / Long beaded necklaces
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