Daniela Gregis

Milan: From the finger-painted faces down to the layered volumes of gauzy linen, fuzzy wools and patchworked bargain bin remnants, one can surmise that Daniela Gregis subscribes to the Kawakubo school of thought. Like Rei Kawakubo and her protégées, Gregis seems to design in her own creative universe, her clothes existing independent of season, trends and other industry shifts. This time, the designer equipped her rustic nomad for cold weather, piling on the layers and pumping up the volume. While Commes des Garçons is identified with polka dots, Gregis has turned checks into a trademark, the pattern representing both classic timelessness and a humble, countryside feeling. Checks were interpreted for fall in muted hues and supple woolens that were fashioned into petal skirts, button-up overshirts and pieced tunics. Liberty florals and basic stripes also joined the mix, turning up as dropped-crotch drawstring pants and boatneck sweaters, repectively. For all the layering and print mixing, the collection had a surprisingly clean aesthetic, lightened by buoyant full skirts and bubble-hemmed tent dresses that evoked a childlike simplicity. Hints of tea-dyed undergarments peaked out from under, and Wellies with matching rubber totes completed the charming portrait of a bucolic dreamer.
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