May 30, 2019 | By Louise Squire
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Jun 09, 2018
London, United Kingdom
London Fashion Week Men’s has returned to the British capital in full force – and, as ever, the eyes of the WGSN editors are firmly focused on the roster of emerging talent – and London always bears plenty of low-hanging fruit.
Day one, show one set the precedent for a Men’s fashion week that offers commercial, wearable pieces for the modern menswear consumer – all whilst staying true to design aesthetics.
Daniel w. Fletcher captured the gaze of the fashion world (WGSN Menswear editors, included) with his debut ‘Brexit’ collection back in 2016, and we’ve been watching the designer hone his skills.
For his S/S19 collection, Fletcher presented his first ever runway show, searching ‘for the sunrise’ in a time of political turbulence, struggle and restraint.
The classic tailoring for the business world was distorted and turned on its head – floor-skimming suit pants with slashed seams were paired with co-ordinating vests, held together with rope. With this hint of corsetry, and punctuations of butter-soft, leather outerwear, the aesthetic resonated with our Men’s Forecast for next season, Dark Dandy – a trend that presents tailoring as almost subversive, given the ubiquity of streetwear.
Senior Menswear Editor Nick Paget felt the collection was “focused, sensible and grown up”.
“With menswear”, says Paget, “the recipe for success often hinges on having some really good suits within your collection. Not only do they have a high ticket price, so it’s more money through the till, suits are something that men are happy to invest in”.
It’s something that’s supported in consumer spending, with Mintel claiming that importance of buying quality clothes rose to 76% of men aged 16-34.
This generation of menswear designers seems to be more focused on striking the balance between being eye-catching and different enough to set themselves apart, but commercial enough to ensure true longevity.
We’ve been reporting heavily on a return to smarter dressing at WGSN. For more exclusive insight on new ways to tailor, read our Design Development A/W 19/20: Tailoring report here.
For insight, analytics and detailed trend alerts this Spring/Summer 19 season, head to the WGSN Men’s Catwalks section.
Liked this? Keep up with Associate Editor Alice Gividen here.
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