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Damir Doma

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COMPLEXITY RESOLVED

Paris: Damir Doma’s first collection for women seemed like a visual demonstration of Constantine Brancusi’s philosophy, “complexity is simplicity resolved”. Possessing clean lines and fluid shapes, the looks were both minimal and clever. Every ounce of style was squeezed out of the collection’s natural ingredients — the drape of the fabrics, the willowy frames of the models’ bodies, the neutral palette were all exploited to their fullest potential. Most pieces had almost no structure, instead simply falling to accommodate each wearer’s figure. Single buttons fastened the front flaps of asymmetrical jackets, and flowing robe-like coats became one with whatever they were worn over. Raw laser-cut edges looked clean in a minimalist way, rather than appearing unfinished. Some ensembles consisted of multiple items that flowed into one seamless silhouette; one model appeared to be wearing three pieces (a black knit column dress, vest, and hood), but it was virtually impossible to tell where one item ended and another began. The models looked effortlessly chic in designs that would work for a wide range of body types and ages, but despite the easy, uncontrived effect, the collection represented the innovative ideas of an intellectual designer.

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