Oct 05, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Paris: Damir Doma examines the ephemeral quality of the human body; his designs study and play with the proportion in true avant-garde style. This season Damir aimed to encapsulate a melange of textures, juxtaposting rough and refined, matte and shine. The silhouettes drew inspiration from the worlds of art and architecture in the quest for the perfect wardrobe and purity of form, and included reworked workwear garments that offer cross-cultural and historical references. Doma’s signature cocooning silhouette was translated into stiff gabardine jackets with military elements. ”I wanted to create a more narrow and restrained silhouette this season — I went almost to opulent last season. I want to celebrate a holistic femininity,” says Damir. This collection also had many tromp l’oeil effects and plays on proportion, construction and gender references. The loose and draped styles of previous seasons were replaced by menswear-inspired shirting, trench coats and oversized paperbag waist pants, all given structure by sash and obi-inspired belts. Damir continues to be true to his formative design experience in Antwerp — this time by conjuring up a melancholic tomboy. — Celia Ingesson
Silhouette: Cocooning / Menswear re-worked / Abstract
Color: Olive green / Sapphire blue and pink / Burnt Sienna / Turquoise / Ivory /Black
Key Items: Kimono-inspired jackets with sash belts / Obi-inspired leather belts / Utility-inspired apron dresses and tops / Envelope trousers with suspenders / Trench coats
Materials: Shantung silk / Raffia / Cotton shirtings / Leather looking coating on sweatshirt jerseys / Leather / Taffeta / Linen / Crinkled silk mix / Coated jersey
Print + Pattern: Crinkle effects / Subtle rippled jacquard effects / Patchwork / Menswear-inspired shirting stripes
Details + Trim: Utility pockets / Utility details like tabs, box stitches and topstitching / Apron details / Fabric and color-blocking / Tromp l’oeil effects
Accessories + Footwear: Damir Doma launched Mykita eyewear collaboration with circular sunglasses in stainless steel and horn / Strapped sandals with molded silver heals / Envelope clutch / Corset belts in exotic lizard / Suspenders
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