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Damir Doma


MONASTIC ECLECTICISM

Paris: For F/W 12, Damir Doma presented a collection that visually cleansed eclecticism — via its rigorously edited palette — while refusing to compromise a single note of uniqueness. Russian peasant, Buddhist monk, and Roman Eclesiastical aesthetic veins (among others) were all present and accounted for. Overt femininity though, never entered this story as ensembles tread strategically in the gender-neutral territory regularly explored by Doma. Earthen spice-tones were realized in head-to-toe looks that played upon the “mutli-hued/monochromatic” concepts visited by several designers this season. The show bracketed this foray into terra cotta, barley, and walnut with an opening and conclusion of monastic black, made special through the richness of fabric textures. —Kibwe Chase-Marshall

Silhouette: Fluid / Voluminous / Slouchy / Boxy / Wrapped / Belted

Color: Black / Walnut / Saffron / Clay / Terra cotta / Chestnut / Nude / Coffee bean / Aubergine

Key Items: Crumb-catcher button-up shirt / Cossack pant / Winter shorts / Circle skirt / Bibbed bodice-warmer / Boxy jacket

Materials: Glove-weight suede / Wool challis / Silk crepe-de-Chine / Wool-felt coating / Cotton poplin / Wool gabardine / Wool crepe / Fox fur / Velvet / Corded velvet / Low-pile striated suiting

Print + Pattern: Cobblestone jacquards / Distressed cow-hide effects

Details + Trim: Trapunto stitching / Closureless jackets and outerwear / Decorative whipstitch

Accessories + Footwear: Cuffed flat-boot / Slipper / Renaissance bootie / Mules

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK

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