May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Paris: Damir Doma presented a strict, cosmopolitan collection inflected with quiet futurism. There was an an early 90s vibe with a rounded slim silhouette and raglan sleeves, concealed buttons, ruched high collars and cropped bomber jackets. “It’s about a cosmopolitan woman, she’s very elegant, well traveled and independent,” Damir Doma told us, post show. The press notes told a story of a subtle rebel, her vagrant spirit parading through the salons of a 19th century hotel particulier. The venue space complemented the tale, as models strode from one room to another in a beautiful Parisian setting. There were thoughtful, quiet details throughout, like an inverted pleat down a swing coat’s spine and a darted bust on a long blazer. Metallic zips suggested speed and motion, used as back splits of pencil skirts and at collarless biker jackets, which were shorn off at the hip and wide as a bolero. Classic fabrics like houndstooth bouclé and Melton wools trimmed with leathers were combined with nylons for a futuristic clean look.”The nylons and technical elements comes from my sportswear background,” explained Damir. Sober ensembles of lacquered wool tweeds, biker gilets and jackets in plush castor fur got a pop with luminous polyamides in raspberry. “It was a masculine starting point, with fabrics turning very feminine and sophisticated with a utilitarian ambiance,” continued Damir, who managed to capture the effortless and efficient vibe that defines a modern day urban woman. —Celia Ingesson
Silhouette: Lean / Minimalist / Rounded / Cropped
Color: Raspberry / Mica Grey / Mineral / Berry / Wine / Grey / Fig / Black
Key Items: Cropped tunic / Leather-trimmed shifts zipped at back / Oversized belted menswear overcoats / Castor fur vest / Tie-belted styles / Laser-punched skater skirt
Materials: Lacquered wool / Houndstooth bouclé / Melton wool / Leather / Crepe wool jersey / Crepe silk / Polyamide / Viscose knit / Castor fur
Print + Pattern: Laser-punched dots / Perforated tile motif
Details + Trim: Leather and nylon contrasting trims
Accessories + Footwear: Stacked monk-strap shoes or Chelsea boots in burnished copper, croc or python / Leather gloves / Doctor’s bag / Frame purse / Anodized metal chain necklaces and bracelets in tints of mint and rose
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