Cynthia Rowley

New York: Conjuring the 1940s and women’s WWII fashions, Cynthia Rowley’s offerings ranged from coveralls to bias-cut secretary dresses this season. The designer listed “tough stuff vs. jewels,” “mechanics,” “cobblers” and “leathermen” among her inspirations, and the collection was indeed full of rugged-fancy juxtapositions and workwear silhouettes. Rowley “baubled” onesies and satin pullovers, applying sequins and paillettes in sporadic clusters; necklines were decorated with encrusted collars and jeweled “turtleneck” chokers. Kaleidoscopic prints added a trippy futuristic element and echoed a backdrop on which the show was being projected from multiple views. –Whitney Kessler

Silhouette: Straight / Slouchy / 1940s-style hourglass

Color: Oxblood / Postal blue / Heather grey / Navy / Periwinkle / Amber / Caramel / Olive / Fatigue green / Deep brown / Pearly white / Black

Key Items: Printed shirtdress / Pieced pullover / Workwear onesie / Silk skirt / Short boxy coat / Intarsia sweater / Satin tee / Bias-cut secretary dress / Pencil pants / Leather trousers

Materials: Silk / Leather / Cashmere / “Tweed silk denim” / Jersey / Shearling

Print + Pattern: Kaleidoscopic “tortoise” and “escargot” shell prints / Swirly “spark” motif / “Woodgrain” intarsia pattern / Tartan plaids

Details + Trim: Clusters of sequin and pailette embellishments / Covered plackets / High-low hems / Encrusted collars / Pieced constructions / Banded edges / Turtlenecks / Attached overskirts

Accessories + Footwear: Patent tortoise shell oxfords / Kerchief print moto gloves / “Baby” cashmere socks / Jeweled turtleneck collars / Dyed African Springbok handbags / Platform sandals and ankle boots / Small aviators


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