May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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THE VAMP DIARIES
New York: With a penchant for skin-baring, body-hugging dresses in sumptuous fabrics, Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs have become known for their command of the cocktail hour, and this season sees them continue on that trajectory with the addition of tactile luxuries such as SAGA fox fur, Kangaroo calfskin, duchess satin and organza overlays. Girls baring the smoky eyes, crimson lips and slicked hair of a Helmut Newton heroine paraded a concise collection in a rigorous palette of black, white and forest green. Calling to mind the early work of their New York contemporary Joseph Altuzarra, the disciplined looks could naturally take up space in Altuzarra-fan Carine Roitfeld’s closet. Tight sheath dresses, daring cutouts and slit-up-to-there dresses (actually, slit “four ways” per the show notes) made erogenous zones out of ribcages, collarbones, and sculpted thighs. Vampy and powerful (with a touch of paganism) is the overarching statement, with garments christened ‘Witching Dress’, ‘Power Viscose Dress’, ‘Puritan Mini Dress’ and ‘Widow’s Peak Dress’. Cushnie et Ochs show an interest in fabric innovation: Aside from the animal skins, viscose featured heavily, and what at first glance appeared to be a silvery-gray moire satin, was in fact “black and white scaled stretch leather”. This, plus the inclusion of a few softer and more accessible pieces in the form of a button-down blouse, flared miniskirts, relaxed blazers, flowing pants, goddess gowns and waitlist-worthy cropped fur jackets, are evidence of a focused evolution from these young designers.—Natalie Shukur
Silhouette: Hourglass / Fit & Flare / Bustier / Pleated / Deep V / Cropped / Body-con / Stretch / Streamlined
Color: White / Black / Forest green
Key Items: Cutout and backless dresses / Stretch leather separates / Deep V-neck dresses / Fox-fur trimmed jackets / Sheath dresses / Trumpet skirt / Cropped jackets / Full pants / Pencil skirts / Floor-length strappy silk gowns
Materials: Viscose / Organza / Stretch cotton / Cotton / Waxed wool / Fox fur / Silk crepe / Stretch leather / Silk georgette / Duchess satin / Kangaroo calfskin / Wool-blend herringbone / Raffia wool / Hammered silk / Wool felt
Print + Pattern: Abstract ‘Woods’ and “Zodiac” prints
Details + Trim: SAGA fox fur / Padded wool / Cut-outs / Open backs / Corseting / Organza overlay / Plunging necklines / Slits / Peaked shoulders / Pleats / Spaghetti straps
Accessories + Footwear: Pointy stiletto lace-up pumps by Christian Louboutin
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