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Cushnie et Ochs

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SEVERE + SEXY

New York: Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs have described their line, Cushnie Et Ochs, as being “at once severe and sexy.” Their F/W 10 show was just that, with ensembles that were structured, dark and form-fitting. Some, which were accessorized with leather helmet-like head wraps and spiky gloves, would be appropriate attire for a dominatrix; others, like a leather dress with cutouts and pagoda shoulders, suggested protective armor. While the designers didn’t stray from the label’s body-con aesthetic, they did experiment with interesting textures to offer a fresh take. Intrigue was added to simple styles by employing dimensional elements, like ostrich feathers or crinkled leather. Pieced panels were used to create tactile surface effects and flattering seam lines. A gutsy braided sweater jacket with silver fox fur sleeves was a standout example of the designers’ mastery of mixed mediums, and touched upon a key design detail of the season — sleeves in a contrasting material. Aside from black, the color palette consisted of dark neutrals, a light putty and dusty mauve, which, when combined with the knotty, coarse, and inconsistent textures, created a recycled-organic feel. The collection as a whole was was polished yet primal, with sex, survival, and nature being common themes.

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