May 17, 2017 | By Samuel Trotman
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The Cruise/Resort shows are continuing to hit our runway quick-look carousel but so many great denim shows have showcased, we thought we’d share some of our picks with you:
Karl Lagerfeld’s Cruise show tapped a 1920s resort-wear attitude with plenty of signature nods to classic Coco: bouclé fabrics, neat, boxy tailoring and strings of statement pearls. Denim has played a part in the last few Chanel shows and Cruise 2014 was no exception. The design house played with new laser technology to create tonal indigo pattern on jeans for both guys and girls while women’s silhouettes took a widened cut with the denim culotte a key item.
The Givenchy men’s and women’s shows both showcased strong some denim for Cruise 2014. Women’s looks explored sculptural, modern takes on dresses and skirts exploring full silhouettes and tiered volume. While clean denims created a premium feeling, raw edges and contrast tobacco top stitching cemented the looks in casualwear. The men’s looks channeled classic jeanswear silhouettes reworked in statement florals for a bold, print-heavy line-up.
Glossy and technical outerwear was the denim focus at IBC. Indigo color-blocked macs, parkas and outdoorsy dresses made up the key pieces, while waxed and resin coatings added a premium attitude to more basic items. Denim is definitely following a more premium, high-shine trend into Summer 13 as explored in our recent Premium Clean report.
A designer that regularly explores denim as a key material, Jen Kao pushed the boundaries for Cruise 14, with denim styling cleverly reworked in new materials, a trend we’ve recently explored in our Non-Denim report. Classic jeans were reworked in statement and graphic prints channeling a strong modernist vibe and an unexpected bottle green palette injected the collection with an off-kilter look. Trucker styling was translated onto items from shirts to dresses and jackets and boyish and boxy silhouettes were key.
As one of the fashion industries budding stars, Jason Wu (winner of Fashion Group’s International Rising Star award 2012) has been under the watchful eye of international press over the past few season’s. Drawing inspiration from `90s golden girls Carolyn Bassette Kennedy and Gwyneth Paltrow, the designer looked to a selection of pared-down silhouettes like popover shifts, high-waisted pencil skirts and shrunken trucker shapes. These classic denim shapes were given a polished finish with dense Tencel fabrics worked into crisp rounded shapes with the ultra glossy faces creating a two-tone appearance. Other key items included a sateen trucker/mac hybrid and a metallic leather jean — both of which tapped into his customers more daring side.
Olivier Theyskens consistently delivers on-trend denim silhouettes season-on-season and his Cruise 14 collection proved no different with a tight edit of “real essential” silhouettes. But this didn’t mean simple skinnies or classic truckers but rather instantly relatable and unique items that would stand out above the basics. This uniqueness was achieved through beautifully executed washes, technical prints and slick finishes. Particular highlights included a three-button stance denim shirt drenched in a leather-look indigo resin coating, a slouchy `90s pant with asymmetric pleats and a shredded white wash trucker. Elsewhere, a monochrome geometric print skinny added a statement appeal, while a cropped ergonomic trouser added a more sleeker touch to the deconstructed collection.
Jonathan Simkhai’s cruise collection demonstrated that the perennial trend for indigo color blocking is showing no signs for slowing. For resort, Simkhai took an ultra clean and tactile approach to the patchwork technique playing with tone, shape and texture. Pale chambray and dark raw denims were fused together in symmetrical rectangles on clean coveralls and sleeveless shirt-dresses, while a collared bomber jacket combined a tactile mix of grey heather knit body, denim sleeves with leather accents at the collar and pocket flaps. Meanwhile, a fitted denim spaghetti dress with seamed white cotton piping introduced a sexier confidence.
For a closer look at these designers plus more, head over to Stylesight’s Runway: Quick Look where you can see the full collections.
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