May 01, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
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As global trade show season takes hold for F/W 13 we turn our attention to the recent fairs that took place in Copenhagen January 1 – February 2.
Recognised as the Nordic Region’s largest fashion event, Copenhagen Fashion Week is one the key stops on the international denim circuit. Showcasing a diverse cast of Scandinavian and European brands alike, the three main trade fairs Gallery, CIFF and newly merged VISION (previously Terminal-2 and CPH Vision) presented some 2,400 brands that included leading denim brands like Won Hundred, Surface to Air, and BLK Denim as well as upcoming Danish labels like Anerkjendt. The shows growing portfolio (6% since August) resulted in an renewed interest from European buyers as well as a noticeable rise in Asian buyers, mainly from China and Japan.
F/W 13 proved a strong season for denim in particular at Gallery, known for Scandinavian design driven brands. Contemporary Danish labels like Wood Wood and 2nd Day looked to denim as a base for their experimental prints and treatments that included Rorschach motifs and dipped resin coatings. Meanwhile, international denim favourites Levi’s Made & Crafted showcased their latest assortment of rustic fabrics and patterns inspired by a trip to a lake in North Michigan. A core focus for the brand included recycled fabrics to create beautifully textured denims. One of the key pieces was a 100% recycled shirt that featured up-cycled denims and buttons recycled from synthetic fabrics.
Gallery’s A/W 13 show provided the platform for German label Esprit to launch their new Denim line. The revised collection is headed up by ex-Levi’s designer and denim veteran, Rosey Cortazzi and her newly appointed team of denim experts from around the world to raise the bar of denim offerings at the high-street brand. Cortazzi was on-hand at the show to take us through the collection and showcase the new developments that included innovative laser treatments, Japanese-inspired woven patterns as well as a much needed injection of core denim pieces. Rosey was quick to highlight how she had completely redesigned their 5-pocket style — the forthcoming collection now features contemporary fits, authentic detailing, and clean washes that raise the bar on the high-street in terms of quality and execution. Another key element Cortazzi has in the pipeline is a collaboration with Isko called “247”, a jean concept that will hit stores in August 2014.
For Men, outdoor and hunting themes were the most prevalent trend across the trade shows. The ongoing workwear aesthetic that has been so relevant in the denim market evolves into F/W 13 with a plethora of huntin’, shootin’ & fishin’ references appearing across all denim assortments. A strong trend at BBB also, brands like PRPS, Anerkjendt and Pendleton looked to game-inspired prints and patterns like denim plaids, playful camo motifs and vibrant blanket linings that give the theme a contemporary approach.
For Women, jacquards, and flocking techniques reached saturation as brands from all ends of the market looked to textured accents to highlight their baroque inspired patterns. Newness came from high-color bases and ornate weaves that created a modern take on the decadent theme. Although the trend was most apparent in bottoms, patterns also emerged on jackets and Men’s shirts pushing it forward for Fall.
Keep your eye out on the denim page for the full trend report due this week.
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