Costume National


Paris: Ennio Capasa returned to his signature sharp cuts in heavy-handed use of black for his Fall collection dubbed, “New Wave-No Wave-Dark Wave.” Silhouettes featured drastic asymmetry, crossover closures and curved, cutaway panels that revealed layers beneath. Leather played a starring role, the material took the form of wide borders placed at the hem of wool coats, it worked as trim around the edges of skirts and jackets, and a handful of ensembles were constructed in head-to-toe leather. The mostly black palette seemed to undulate as it transitioned into the darkest shades of teal and navy, while stark white and bright cobalt lent a bit of graphic contrast. In all the darkness, individual garments became almost indecipherable, only discernible by flashes of skin revealed by cutouts or the presence of dramatic texture, like utra-glossy patent leather or lush, dyed fur.  —Anna Jane Davis

Silhouette: Asymmetric + Cutaway

Color:  Black / White / Cobalt / Black-Teal / Black-Navy / Navy / Red (for accents)

Key Items:  Sheer mock turtleneck / Structured sleeveless wrap tunic / Baggy leather pants / Asymmetric jacket

Materials: Crisp cotton shirting / Brushed silk / Sheer knits / Firm, heavy wools / High-gloss patent leather / Polished leather / Dyed fur

Print + Pattern: Two-tone barren-tree graphics

Details + Trim: Leather borders, trims + piecing / Asymmetric hems / Crossover closures / Stand collars / Curved, cutaway panels

Accessories + Footwear: Squared aviator sunglasses / Slouch hats / Leather opera gloves / Structured waist pouches / Patent just-over-the-knee boots with exposed zippers


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