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Costume National

Costume National S/S 2012 Stylesight

TECHNO-BILLY
Milan: Last season, for his F/W 2011 collection, Costume National’s Ennio Capasa took inspiration from New York No Waver James Chance, saxophonist for Teenage Jesus and the Jerks, to create a collection defined by punk tailoring. This time, for S/S 12, the designer took his musical inspiration back two decades to the original rockabilly rockers, showing a mostly achromatic collection punctuated by bursts of scarlet cinnabar, used for unstructured and restructured garments. Capasa turned blazers and tuxedo jackets into short-sleeve shirts, with and without collars. The designer also hid button closures on double-breasted blazers, and streamlined garments by using ultrasound technology to create stitchless seams. Knee-length trench coats looked more traditional, as did low-slung straight-legged trousers — yet even here the designer played with perception, as some trousers appeared to have pleats that disappeared upon closer inspection. Capasa’s latest collection updated classic teenage rebellion by using advanced technology and unexpected constructions to entice and trick the eye. —Andrew Luecke

Color: Scarlet / Gray / Black / White

Key Items: Unstructured blazers / Cropped trench coats / Low-slung trousers / Short-sleeve shirt jackets with skinny lapels / Collarless jackets / Slim straight trousers / Harringtons

Materials: Nylon / Tropical-weight wool / Sharkskin

Print + Pattern: Windowpane plaid / Checks

Details + Trim: Piping / Stitchless ultrasound seams / Contrast collars / Embroidered color-pop buttonholes / Small point collars

Accessories + Footwear: Slim polka dot ties / Bolos / Two-tone or three-tone creepers featuring woven toes, checkers, or red highlights / Colored skinny belts with buckles worn to the side

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