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Costume National

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PRIMAL MEETS MODERN

Ennio Capasa’s dark army marched out on the runway, offering a “juxtaposition of the man-made and the organic; fusing the most modern techniques of fabric available with the most classic traditions of tailored clothing.” Multiple fabrics merged into one garment, adding interest and dimension to this dusky collection. Classic wool suit jackets had mohair sleeves, cropped cashmere bombers had cable knit yolks, and asymmetrical leather biker jackets received fur sleeves and embellishments. Slim pants were tucked into army boots, in what has become a key styling direction for menswear. A drab overcoat with a rib-knit shawl collar was worn over a black turtleneck sweater — the subtle yet rich combination of black and olive suggests that the two shades may become the season’s chosen neutrals.

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