Costume National
By Joanna Manganaro

TAILORED ELEGANCE Paris: One can always expect precise tailoring from a Costume National collection, but this season, it seemed to play an even more …

Mar 03, 2013
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Costume National F/W 2013
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Costume National F/W 2013

TAILORED ELEGANCE
Paris: One can always expect precise tailoring from a Costume National collection, but this season, it seemed to play an even more important role. Fluidity and movement were at a minimum, making control the offering’s key element. Designer Ennio Capasa used the traditional pantsuit as a jumping-off point, then tweaked the details to make it feel fresh. He slashed into jackets, leaving dangling panels, and he manipulated or removed lapels. Interestingly, he brought back skirt-over-pants styling, which was popular in the 90s, but managed to make it look contemporary again. Capasa cited the Chinese Miao tribe as an influence, but the references to their traditional dress were very subtle. A red tone (the brightest color in the moody collection) was a Miao element, as were tiered panels and contrast trim, but the majority of the items were simply a meditation on tailoring. –Joanna Manganaro

Silhouette: Long layers / A-line / Easy hourglass / Columnar

Color: Black / Midnight blue / Optic white / Deep red

Key Items: Tailored trousers / Cutaway blazers / Wrap skirts / Tiered dresses / Peplum tops

Materials: Wool suitings / Lustrous fur / Chiffon / Silk CDC / Charmeuse / Bonded silks / Sheer jersey / Leather

Print + Pattern: Chevron stripes

Details + Trim: Leather or contrast trim / Wrap closures / Extended panels / Tiers / Cutouts / Peplums / Contrast lapels / Self-belts

Accessories + Footwear: Frame bags / Metal-trimmed platform loafers / Platform oxfords / Ankle boots

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK


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