May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Paris: One can always expect precise tailoring from a Costume National collection, but this season, it seemed to play an even more important role. Fluidity and movement were at a minimum, making control the offering’s key element. Designer Ennio Capasa used the traditional pantsuit as a jumping-off point, then tweaked the details to make it feel fresh. He slashed into jackets, leaving dangling panels, and he manipulated or removed lapels. Interestingly, he brought back skirt-over-pants styling, which was popular in the 90s, but managed to make it look contemporary again. Capasa cited the Chinese Miao tribe as an influence, but the references to their traditional dress were very subtle. A red tone (the brightest color in the moody collection) was a Miao element, as were tiered panels and contrast trim, but the majority of the items were simply a meditation on tailoring. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Long layers / A-line / Easy hourglass / Columnar
Color: Black / Midnight blue / Optic white / Deep red
Key Items: Tailored trousers / Cutaway blazers / Wrap skirts / Tiered dresses / Peplum tops
Materials: Wool suitings / Lustrous fur / Chiffon / Silk CDC / Charmeuse / Bonded silks / Sheer jersey / Leather
Print + Pattern: Chevron stripes
Details + Trim: Leather or contrast trim / Wrap closures / Extended panels / Tiers / Cutouts / Peplums / Contrast lapels / Self-belts
Accessories + Footwear: Frame bags / Metal-trimmed platform loafers / Platform oxfords / Ankle boots
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