Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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New York: For Pre-Fall, designer Ennio Capasa revisited some of the elements that typically define his collections for Costume National. There were biker inspirations, with coats, blazers, and jackets featuring overlapping front panels and zip closures. There was also plenty of black leather. A cropped, double-breasted jacket hinted at a military influence, another common theme in Capasa’s work. Color blocking and graphic stripes harmonized with the precise tailoring and clean lines. Jacket lapels and contrast panels made for some standout dresses, and roomy trousers looked sophisticated and current. Trim tuxedos and smoking jackets, all featuring glittering Lurex threads rounded out the offering and provided a desirable option for evening. The sumptuous palette of sapphire blue, burgundy, shimmery gold, and black, in addition to lustrous fabrics reinforced the luxurious vibe.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Cylindrical / Roomy / Hourglass / Boxy / Long over long
Color: Black / Sapphire / Navy / Burgundy / Mauve / Gold / Slate / White
Key Items: Coats with zip closures / Leather blazers / Color blocked dresses / Tuxedos / Smoking jackets
Materials: Heavy felted wool / Matte suitings / Lustrous leathers / Chiffon / Twill / Fluid silks / Mesh / Lurex
Print + Pattern: Color blocking / Wide stripes / Dots
Details + Trim: Biker jacket elements / Contrast panels / Contrast lapels / Shirttail hemlines
Accessories + Footwear: Long leather gloves / Accordion clutches / Fold-over clutches / Platform ankle boots / Over-the-knee boots
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