Costume National

Costume National designer Ennio Capasa invoked the spirit of the label’s influential 90s collections to describe this season’s roots-based approach, which saw him march models down the runway clad in deceptively simple, mostly monotone ensembles. Subdued greys and blacks helped mask the complexity of seemingly simple garments, like shearling-lined motorcycle jackets, double-breasted blazers with knitted sleeves, or trench-coat-bomber hybrids. Shots of moss green and Bordeaux enlivened the palette while maintaining its somber dignity. As models turned on the runway, what appeared to be backpack straps were revealed to be supports for trenches and other outerwear. Trousers were cropped, with hints of skinhead and rockabilly verve, and footwear was went street-dandy, with creeper-soled brogues showing visible steel toecaps and chunky boots wrapped in tough leather panels. Though direct 90s references were scarce, Capasa did suggest Costume National’s origins via solid staples shot through with clever, artistic and technical touches.   —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Clean classic shapes with rockabilly bottoms and sophisticated futuristic finishes

Color: Ice / Dusty Grey / Bordeaux / Anthracite grey / Navy / Black / Moss

Key Items: Double-breasted cutaway tuxedo jackets / Cropped trousers / Leather paneled blazer / Shine-finish fleece biker jackets / Trench-bomber hybrids

Materials: Jersey / Mohair / Fustian / Felt / Flannel

Print + Pattern: Windowpane plaid / Buffalo plaid / Microcheck

Details + Trim: Visible steel toecaps / Raw-cut leathers and pony hair /

Accessories + Footwear: Beatle boots / Tucked and folded overlong belts / Ankle boots / Leather totes / Multi-buckle belts / Black leather or fingerless wool gloves / Backpack strap jackets

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