New York: Although Jeffrey Costello and Robert Tagliapietra cited “city flowers” as the inspiration for their S/S 2012 collection, there were no predictable summer florals to be found. The duo experimented with individual petals and buds to produce a series of prints that were both abstract and startlingly beautiful. The show notes quoted Georgia O’Keeffe: “When you take a flower in your hand and really look at it, it’s your world for the moment. I want to give that world to someone else. Most people in the city rush around so, they have no time to look at a flower.” These quiet words thundered through the collection’s color palette of dried desert bark, burnt sienna and cactus greens. The city element came through in muddy puddle prints shot through with the colors of refracted neon headlights. Standouts were dresses manipulated to appear as though the models had artfully tied fabric over themselves; it was only up close that one could see the meticulous construction that went into each fold. The vaguely Grecian jersey gowns that closed the show were among the most intelligent interpretations of oft-referenced sportswear designer Claire McCardell’s dresses (themselves inspired by master draper Madame Grès) to have graced a New York runway in recent years. – Shine Anthony-Dharan

Silhouette: Relaxed / Draped

Color: Rust / Goldenrod / Forest Green / Teal / Burnt Sienna

Key Items: Draped knee-length and mid-calf dresses / Printed camisoles

Materials: Jersey / Satin

Prints + Patterns: Painterly splashes / Muddy puddle prints

Details + Trim: Draping / Bowtied waists / Spaghetti straps

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