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Costello Tagliapietra

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GEISHA IN THE CITY

New York: The suspender-clad duo of Costello Tagliapietra returned to their signature draping for fall. If anything, they pushed it even further, citing a recent trip to Japan and 80s Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto as inspirations. Disheveled Gibson Girl buns and cherry red pouts translated the geisha look for modern times. Pants made a rare appearance, draped in a harem silhouette that subtly recalled the Japanese masters, but in a refined and dressy way that did not look out of place amongst Costello Tagliapietra’s usual soft blouses and ladylike dresses. The designers also experimented with wovens, molding peau de soie into cocoon-shaped jackets, surprising back panels and insets that anchored the fluid drapes. AirDye — an eco-friendly process that does not use water — gave the palette of dusty pinks, buttery nudes and chestnut browns a powdery quality that complemented the soft construction of the clothes. With a soundtrack provided by the Misshapes and Leigh Lezark sitting front and center, the duo seems to be reaching out to a different crowd. And while an uncharacteristic violet and silver-streaked lamé seemed geared towards the nightlife socialite and was a welcome respite, the figure-flattering, elegantly shaped dresses in supple jerseys are still what this duo does best.

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