Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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AN ELIZABETHAN COCKTAIL
London: Nielsen presented the first avant-garde collection of London Fashion Week with twenty looks that served as a lesson in costume history. The designer explored two distinct and seemingly unrelated Golden Ages: the Elizabethan era and Paris couture of the 1940s-50s. As the collection unfolded, threads of continuity revealed themselves in the tightly corseted, restrictive, and decorative nature of each era’s fashions. Neilsen’s exploration of hoops, boning and padding found as much footing in a barrel-skirted Elizabethan gown, reminiscent of Flemish portraiture, as it did in tailoring inspired by Christian Dior’s iconic 1947 “Bar suit.” Although largely an essay in showpieces (there was one huge, billowing cape in gathered teal silk that Shakespeare would have found theatrical), Nielsen’s menswear inspired, slim cashmere coats and silhouette-altering blanket-like wraps may well end up in a store near you.
Color: Amethyst / Burgundy / Metallics / Gunmetal Gray / Pale Gold / Cobalt
Key Items: Blouses with ruff inspired collars / Tailored jackets with padded shoulders and hips / Below the knee pencil skirts / Pleated tulip skirts / Corseted cocktail dresses and ball gowns
Materials: Duchesse satins / Triple silks / Menswear weight wools
Details + Trim: Tulle necklines / Padded roll shoulders / Rectangular “hoops” under garments to add volume / Extra long trousers / Deep pleating / Cinched waists
Accessories + Footwear: Satin ballet slippers with ribbon ties / High-heeled sling-backs in metallic tones / Lady-like drop earrings and studs
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