Corporate Soldier


The message of Miuccia Prada’s latest men’s collection was “survival of the fittest,” and if anything, the fashions she presented were unusually somber and restrained. In previous seasons the collection toyed with the fragility and changing role of the modern male. This time, however, it was the notion of what it means to be a strong, effective male in such trying times. The setting was a small pit, like a cage from an apocalyptic movie, but with shag pile carpeting instead of dirt. One model sported a tasseled headband, resembling that of an extreme fighter. The show began with the emblematic corporate man: dark suits, matching topcoats, and black oxfords. Then a harder edge emmerged via a laser-cut duster in both fur and leather, almost monkish in its austerity, and then jackets and shoes covered with studs. “Toughen up and tough it out” is what the designer seemed to say. If the world is coming to a screeching halt, at least Prada’s men will be armed with classic, well-fitting clothes.


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