Copping gets thumbs up for de la Renta debut while Hillier, Bartley mix nostalgia with protest and utility at Marc show

It was a big day at New York Fashion Week on Tuesday as Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley continued their reinvention of Marc by Marc Jacobs while Peter Copping took his first bow at Oscar de la Renta. More of Jacobs’ second line later.

Just how did Copping fare?

Having been chosen by the late Oscar de la Renta as the designer to carry his legacy forward, Copping had no chance to work with him due to de la Renta’s death almost immediately after he joined the firm.

But he worked with de la Renta collaborators and brought with him some of the mood he injected into the clothes for his previous house, Nina Ricci, with the result that the critical reception was, on the whole, good.

The collection was more Oscar than Peter and targeted the stalwart de la Renta customer – the first ladies, the executives, the news anchors and ladies who very-seriously-lunch.

So no parkas, studded sweaters, backpacks or over-the-knee boots then.

Instead we saw some striking eveningwear (the black roses on white looked particularly strong), as well as some more youthful cocktail dresses that wouldn’t have looked out of place on younger clients like Taylor Swift.

The colour statements made the biggest impact with deft black and white combinations, enlivened further by the addition of red, plus rich royal blue or magenta.

A complete contrast came at Marc by Marc Jacobs where Hillier and Bartley continued themes they’ve already visited in their previous two outings for the brand, this time coming up with a collection most critics judged their best yet.

They gave us an interesting mix of William Morris prints and retro protest slogans (‘Suffragette’ and ‘Solidarity’) with the combination of a 19th century print and a 20th century-style battledress jacket and cargo pants certainly making a statement.

There were lots of commercial key items from the pinafore dresses to little jackets, printed mix jeans with zip details and sever grey coats. But perhaps the easiest takeaways were the berets (designed by Judy Blame), the heavy studded boots and the simple, utlilitarian belt bags.

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