Feb 21, 2017 | By Lourdes Linares
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Over in Paris at Denim by PV, the guys at Cone showed us a really special book they’ve been working on. For the first time in their 120 year history, the company have put together a complete visual history of their famous White Oak plant including some never-before-seen Stereograph images.
Many people have seen the classic White Oak stereograph image of the famous weaving room with its narrow shuttle looms and women in period dress taken in 1909. But within this new book, this entire collection of images can be seen, following the denim making processes from opening bales of cotton, all the way through to weaving the denim. Also within the book are images from their archival advertising, photos taken at the plant throughout its history and information about the early days in Greensboro, North Carolina.
We’ve picked some choice, never before published imagery below. This image shows the ‘Opening’ process, where bales of cotton are fed in to machines that loosen and open the fibers of the cotton, even out lumps and remove debris such as leaves or stems.
The process of dying below shows the warp yarns being passed through the indigo vats. To aid the penetration of the indigo into the yarn the warps have been pre-boiled and softened and the yarns are passed through the vats several times to create a strong depth of color.
Below we see the ‘Slashing‘ process, where the now spun cotton indigo warp yarns are stiffened to strengthen them during the weaving process on the looms. This is also where the additional white yarns are added at either edge, creating the selvedge.
The book is not available to buy but Cone will be no doubt sharing more images as time goes on, so stay tuned for more news. We were really lucky to get these exclusive first looks so thank you Cone!
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