Comme des Garçons Homme Plus

Paris: Initially, comfort seemed to be king at Rei Kawakubo’s S/S 13 Comme des Garçons Homme Plus presentation, with calf-length grey hoodies and elongated jersey motorcycle jackets layered over relaxed camouflage and leopard-print pajama sets. But if many of these pieces suggested a sulking, rebellious teenage boy, others indicated his status, such as spiked headbands worn like crowns and courtly frock coats embellished with florid velvet flocking. Throughout the collection, contradictions of adolescence and adulthood kept coming. Grey businessman suiting was paired with brightly laced sneakers and a velvet topcoat covered up punky jailhouse stripes. Closing on garish tartans and gold lamé hidden under formal grown-up overcoats, the unrelenting push between young and old became palpable, with Kawakubo crafting a masterful, elegant showdown without disclosing which side Comme des Garçons is on.— Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Long / Layered / Nipped-waist / Full

Color: Olive / Dove grey / White / Black / Camel / Gold / Cranberry / Emerald / Navy

Key Items: Pajama sets / Frock coats / Elongated motorcycle jackets / Wide trousers / Long sweatshirts / Relaxed suiting

Materials: Cotton / Terrycloth / Velvet / Leather / Silk / Lamé / Jersey / Satin

Print + Pattern: Stripes / Camouflage / Leopard print / Illustrated graphics / Tartan

Details + Trim: Studs / Frog closures / Velvet flocking / Oversized buttons / Contrast stitching / Drawstrings / Zippers

Accessories + Footwear: Headbands / Patterned leather loafers / Sneakers


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