Oct 29, 2018 | By Alice Gividen
Paris: The skull, a major icon of the last five years, became an ironic statement on the times in designer Rei Kawakubo’s hands. Parading her neo punks down the runways, the skulls showed up on every possible classification, sometimes as part of a checkered print on pants and jackets, and was even stenciled on the back of models’ heads. Directional pieces found among the dark humor included dropped crotch shorts, small-collared shirts buttoned to the top, pieced tailored jackets that allowed a bit of layered shirt to show through, and perfectly washed and rumpled suits. Other than black, white and the occasional pale blue, there were pops of blood red, used for patent leather blazers and jackets. While a sense of macabre is not foreign to Kawakubo, it was a provocative contrast to the optimistic whimsy she has expressed in recent seasons.
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