May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: Never a woman of many words, Rei Kawakubo succinctly described her Comme des Garçons F/W 10 collection as “inside decoration”. While on the surface, the description seemed obvious, as what looked like tiny throw pillows decorated the garments, but with Kawakubo it’s never that easy. “Inside decoration” could also refer to the profundity of the work, the designer and the wearer. For fans of the line, these clothes are never frivolous; rather, they connect deeply to each wearer, and many feel them to be an expression of their inner selves. This season, Kawakubo seemed to reference her famous “bump” collection of 1997 where padded sections cropped up in various places on garments, distorting the body’s silhouette, although this iteration seemed a bit more refined. Tartan plaid pieces hinted at other past collections and articulated the designer’s irreverent, almost punk vision, while relaxed short suits looked more subdued despite the pillowy parts. The white dresses that closed the show were a perfect representation of Kawakubo’s genius: while the padded bumps emerged in odd places and sections of pillow stuffing escaped at waists and hemlines, the shapes and overall effect of the garments were hauntingly beautiful.
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