Comme des Garçons
By Joanna Manganaro

WELL SUITED Paris: It would be an insult to Rei Kawakubo’s genius to describe her brilliant collection as a borrowed-from-the-boys affair. It was much …

Mar 02, 2013
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Comme des Garçons F/W 2013
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Comme des Garçons F/W 2013

WELL SUITED
Paris: It would be an insult to Rei Kawakubo’s genius to describe her brilliant collection as a borrowed-from-the-boys affair. It was much more cerebral than that. Yes, the designer used Savile Row suitings, twisting them into fabric flowers and bows, but the over-the-top proportions made both the embellishments and the garments themselves into a study of silhouette and of excess. The classic menswear foundations provided a defined structure against which Kawakubo could express her creativity, and the collection was stronger for it. The recognizable elements of lapels, flap pockets, and pant cuffs served to make the fabric manipulations that much more resonant and profound. The designer kept the suiting elements but ditched the classic patterns for the ebullient final passage of looks; their kaleidoscopic prints, pixilated florals, and punchy brights felt like a primal scream, a pure release of emotion and creativity. –Joanna Manganaro

Silhouette: Asymmetrical volume / Layered / Rounded / Exaggerated shoulders / Slouchy

Color: Black / White / Navy / Burgundy / Bright red / Magenta / Carnation / Lime / Tangerine / Neon yellow / Cobalt

Key Items: Floral appliqué pantsuits / Jumpsuits / Slouchy pants / Broad-shouldered jackets / Kaleidoscopic printed suiting separates

Materials: Menswear suitings / Lace jacquard / Cotton shirtings / Lush velvet / Shaggy fur / Silk jacquard

Print + Pattern: Houndstooth / Pinstripes / Checks / Wide stripes / Kaleidoscopic abstract motifs / Pixilated florals

Details + Trim: Fabric flower and bow appliqués / Twisted fabrics / Honeycomb-like padded panels with cutouts / Extra-broad shoulders / Overlapping swatches of fabric / Shawl collars / Puffed sleeves

Accessories + Footwear: Avant-garde headpieces / Scrunched-down socks / Flat lace-up sneakers

View in RUNWAY: QUICK LOOK


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