Comme des Garçons


Paris: Rei Kawakubo showed a horror-influenced, carnivalesque collection bursting with punks, tramps, sailors, zombies, and androgyny. Long black motorcycle jackets met at the intersection of hearse driver and apocalyptic biker, while long dressing gown shirts and skirts alluded to otherworldly carnival gender bending. Kawakubo paired cropped tailcoats in windowpane checks with student shorts, patterned stockings and clunky square-toed Frankenstein booties, hinting at undead schoolboys like Eddie Munster, or more formally, Barbadian funeral attendants. Ghoulish psycho-billy patterns abounded with pumpkin and black stripes or diamond harlequin intarsias adorning socks, and a slew of scarlet, pink, or black check patterns showing up on motorcycle jackets. Accessories and grooming vied for attention with core pieces, as pasty, corpse-like models sported center-parted spit curled hair that evoked zombified tourists a la 1932 talkie White Zombie, while misshapen straw hats looked fresh from a sugar cane plantation, and trinket-encrusted junk crowns identified carnival krew kings. Kawakubo’s collection showed a wry pop culture humor, underscored by the laugh-now-cry-later, life and death celebration of carnival. —Andrew Luecke

Color: Pumpkin / Bubblegum / Black / Scarlet / Neon green / Smoke

Key Items: Tailcoats / Peacoats / Schoolboy shorts / Cropped trousers / Dressing gown shirting / Skirts / Duffle coats / Double-breasted trench coats

Materials: Lace / Wool suiting / Leather

Print + Pattern: Checkerboard / Diamonds / Windowpane checks / Pinstripes / Polka dots

Details + Trim: Orange buttons / Rope and toggle closures / Butterfly collars on suit coats / Small point collars / Visible zippers

Accessories + Footwear: Straw cane cutter hats / Carnival crowns / Patterned socks / Square-toed boots

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