May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
Milan…Dolce & Gabbana
Overhead screens displayed videos of intrecciato, the basket-weaving technique that produced the most spectacular pieces in Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana’s latest collection, amazing tailored jackets with abstract notions of “over and under” patterns. An almost emotional subtext existed, pointing to the importance of staying connected to what one does best in times of peril, and for this design duo, it’s masculine tailoring with unexpected layers. The collection had notions of a glamorized mafia, revealing the Sicilian roots of both designers. The strongest section had a romantic feeling of all things baroque with moirés, velvets, and frog closings that could have stepped straight out of Visconti’s The Leopard. Evolving from Spring’s chic pajamas, the designers offered a comfort zone for Fall in the form of quilted pants paired back to chunky knits and tuxedo vests. Taking off a bit of the hard edge with sophisticated pops of color and lush fabrics worked well, giving a much needed mood of formaility to what’s typically a very unrestrained collection.
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