Classic shapes with meticulous attention to detail at Thom Browne

New York: Thom Browne manages to get just the right blend of masculine tailoring in to his womenswear collections and Pre-Fall was no exception. Feminine shapes took the guise in new masculine silhouettes – either unstructured and loose or nipped to the waist. This was all about uniforms but not uniforms in the expected sense but a wardrobe of ready to go feminine/masculine suits that would cloth any diva from Monday to Friday quite nicely. The ‘uniform’ idea was about simple shapes – sack jackets, cropped trousers, luxe overcoats, the quintessential Oxford shirt and waisted sport coats. These classics bore all the hallmarks of Browne’s originality, including his finite attention to innovative materials. Tweeds of cotton and cashmere were blended with paper and rubber for newness in texture. Continuing on this approach, each piece bore some exquisite attention to detail either through luxe trims such as fur collars, silk braiding or raw hems. Of his collection, Browne said: “It enhances the specialty of the harder garments, which in turn elevates the shirt. ” The sense of ease provided a welcome fresh perspective. – Lizzy Bowring 

Theme: Masculine uniformity with a feminine edge

Key Items: Chesterfield coat / Cardigan dresses / Suit jackets / A-line skirts / High-waisted trousers / Cropped and cuffed wide leg trousers / Blazer / Colour blocked sweater / 3-piece suiting / Oxford shirts

Colour: Light grey / Cement / Cream / Navy / Camel  / Black

Materials and Trim: Mink / Tweed / Cashmere / Silk jacquards / Broadcloth / Oxford shirting / Astrakhan /  Silk braids / Patch pockets

Print and Pattern: Foulards / Windowpane checks

Accessories and Footwear: Ties / Lace-ups / Oversized patent croc bags / Oversized clutch /  Ankle boots / Chunky heeled shoes

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