May 29, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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London: Borneo and the maverick anthropologist Tom Harrison – who devoted his life to preserving the country’s environment and culture – was on the mind of Christopher Raeburn for S/S 16. The clothes were the survival kit needed for Borneo’s jungle, all executed with technical precision. His signature deconstructed and remade design style was seen across all categories – made from parachutes, sleeping bags and bivouac canopies as well as the continued use of reclaimed military surplus. Cork was an unexpected material choice used as panels for outerwear and across his expanded accessories range while mesh panels used in bombers and summer parkas added an urban sportswear note. Tribal influences came through in standout weaving techniques seen across suits, shorts, t-shirts and bombers as well as sarong’s in technical cottons. Borneo’s orang-utans provided the seasonal print and could be seen swinging across t-shirts and intarsia knits while 3-D interpretations appeared as oversized leather rucksacks creating a striking move forward for Raeburn’s animal bag concept. The colour palette would work well in the real or urban jungle and consisted of navy, black, and olive green with highlights of turquoise and pink. – Tom Crisp
Theme: Jungle survival
Key Colours: Black, Navy, Sand, Olive Green, Turquoise, Pink
Materials and Trims: Air-break parachutes, Sleeping bags, Workwear denim, Bivouac canopies, Fine gauge cotton knitwear, Cork, Jersey
Print and Pattern: Orang-utan prints, Map prints, Camouflage
Accessories and Footwear: Packaway bags, Bowling bags, Oversized orang-utan rucksacks, Woven rucksacks
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