Mar 31, 2017 | By Catarina Lambranho
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London: Christopher Raeburn’s F/W 13 menswear show was inspired by England’s Redsand Sea Forts, resulting in a wide range of waterproof outerwear and athletic gear, some of which he carried over to the women’s collection. But where the men’s pieces veered into bright, slick utility, the feminine approach was subtle— degradé wool recalled stormy waters, anoraks had the low-key red of a sailor’s favored sunset and patchworked stripes could have been sourced from vintage signal flags. Key items were Raeburn staples, such as bomber jackets with zig-zag quilting, duffels in a subtle tartan and track pants, this time crafted from both metallic nylon and felted lace. Understated and clever, Raeburn’s Fall presentation was as practical as ever but carried a newly diffuse emotional impact. —Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Boxy / Relaxed / Utilitarian / Tapered
Color: Charcoal / Coppery khaki / Black / Stone / Chambray blue / Burgundy
Key Items: Duffel coats / Bomber jackets / Pencil skirts / Track pants / Jumpsuits / T-shirt tunic dresses / Quilted matched sets / Crewneck knits tops / Quilted anoraks / Windbreakers with mesh sleeves
Materials: Degradé wool / Mesh nylon / Felted Teflon-coated lace / Silk / Satin / Double faced jersey
Print + Pattern: Tartan / Lace motifs / Patchworked stripes
Details + Trim: Hoods / Quilting / Drawstrings / Cargo pockets / Snap closures / Gathered cuffs / Toggle closures
Accessories + Footwear: Nylon booties / Low profile caps / Puffer bags / Barrel bags / Square lace backpacks
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