Christopher Raeburn

London: Christopher Raeburn’s F/W 13 menswear show was inspired by England’s Redsand Sea Forts, resulting in a wide range of waterproof outerwear and athletic gear, some of which he carried over to the women’s collection. But where the men’s pieces veered into bright, slick utility, the feminine approach was subtle— degradé wool recalled stormy waters, anoraks had the low-key red of a sailor’s favored sunset and patchworked stripes could have been sourced from vintage signal flags. Key items were Raeburn staples, such as bomber jackets with zig-zag quilting, duffels in a subtle tartan and track pants, this time crafted from both metallic nylon and felted lace. Understated and clever, Raeburn’s Fall presentation was as practical as ever but carried a newly diffuse emotional impact. —Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Boxy / Relaxed / Utilitarian / Tapered

Color: Charcoal / Coppery khaki / Black / Stone / Chambray blue / Burgundy

Key Items: Duffel coats / Bomber jackets / Pencil skirts / Track pants / Jumpsuits / T-shirt tunic dresses / Quilted matched sets / Crewneck knits tops / Quilted anoraks / Windbreakers with mesh sleeves

Materials: Degradé wool / Mesh nylon / Felted Teflon-coated lace / Silk / Satin / Double faced jersey

Print + Pattern: Tartan / Lace motifs / Patchworked stripes

Details + Trim: Hoods / Quilting / Drawstrings / Cargo pockets / Snap closures / Gathered cuffs / Toggle closures

Accessories + Footwear: Nylon booties / Low profile caps / Puffer bags / Barrel bags / Square lace backpacks


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