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Christopher Kane

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PUNK PRINCESS

London: Christopher Kane’s sister and business partner Tammy described the designer’s current collection as “Princess Margaret on acid.” Ladylike lace suits and separates in screaming neon tones were actually made from laser-cut leather with a vinyl coating, their boxy shape mimicking the silhouette that the Princess preferred. Classic argyle sweaters and sweater sets added to the prim and proper theme. Lace dresses followed, their feminine look enlivened with the bright tones and structural piping, sometimes in contrasting colors. The show then took a surprising turn, with prints inspired by the tattoos of Japanese “yakuza” gangsters featuring brightly colored snakes twisting around blue flowers, their menacing hiss giving box-pleated skirts and sweater sets an edge. The final looks – heavily and colorfully beaded lace pieces in vivid tones – seemed to connect this collection with Kane’s F/W 10 show, the intricacy and off-beat sense of romance now seeming to become a theme for the still-developing designer.

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