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Christopher Kane

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SWEETLY SUBVERSIVE
London: Never afraid to make a statement, and unwittingly setting trends season after season, Christopher Kane presented another intriguing collection, this time comprised of all-black getups that were part dominatrix, part virginal country maiden. It was Kane’s vision of a Catholic schoolgirl gone bad (the designer cited child bride Priscilla Presley as a key inspiration), and appropriately, leather and lace served as the key ingredients. Many of spring’s coquettish silhouettes reappeared, with these seemingly opposing fabrics skillfully pieced into sleek, body-hugging sheaths, cheongsams and pencil skirts. The only color came from intricate floral embroideries that one could picture an old-fashioned schoolgirl or her grandmother producing, although the fact that they appeared on leather made them sexily subversive. The precious bouquets erupted into starburst patterns of rhinestones and colored gems at the end, bringing the Elvis Presley influence full circle. Skating the borderline of taste, this in-your-face collection may draw divisive opinions, but one has to admire Kane for never shying away from a theme and always expressing a singular vision.
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